Creality cr-10 3d printer review worth the hype all3dp usd vnd chart


The Shenzen Creality 3D Technology CR-10, to give it its cumbersomely full title, is a good 3D printer. In fact for the price, it’s a solid recommendation — especially so when its resellers are frequently fire-selling the pants off it.

Few other printers offer such a large print volume. And at just around $400, the CR-10 is an exceptionally functional 3D printer, capable of super-sizing your average 3D printing needs.

But there are a couple of caveats. The design, while neat, has an unneccessarily large footprint. And out-of-the-box printing of materials that are prone to warping or overly sensitive to temperature are off-limits.

The main issues we encountered while printing with the CR-10 center around switching between filaments and trying our luck with uncooperative materials such as ABS (which, depending on where you read up on the printer, it is capable of printing).

But such annoyances aside, we’d have little hesitation in making the CR-10 our daily driver binary translator. It plays nice with the usual slicer software and challenges you to think big about your printing. The results take longer, by nature of the size of the prints, but we’d argue the rewards can be far greater. Just don’t expect the printer to do all of the work for you.

The CR-10 is the work of Chinese firm Shenzen Creality 3D Technology, a surprisingly transparent producer of 3D printers with a full roster that is easily viewable online (rather than shrouded behind total obscurity amid a muddy network of resellers).

Founded in 2014, the company claims to have ties with multiple Chinese universities. And take a trip to their website at your own peril as they bombard you with customer support popups. As intrusive web events go, that’s probably the friendliest, but still a bit irritating.

The CR-10 came about in the summer of 2016, following the short development of the Creality CR-7 and its evolution into the CR-8 usd nzd exchange rate. The CR-10 boasts a similar design to its CR-8 predecessor, albeit with the control box integrated into the base and the X-axis rail jutting freely out into space.

You can see how the CR-10 evolved from the CR-7 and CR-8. The addition of a full frame for stablization makes sense. The control box removal we can only guess was to add in a heated bed without overheating the printer’s control board.

After sleuthing around the web to find whether the CR-10 is the source of this particular design that is catching all the heat these days (see Anet’s E10 and Hictop’s low-effort rebadging), it would appear so. It’s rather difficult to keep up with these things when there are a dozen clones on the digital shelves of resellers. So it’s nice to know that you’re getting some sort of original thought with Creality’s CR-10.

On appearances alone, we find the Creality CR-10 to have quite the appealing figure ucsd my chart. There’s a stark simplicity to it, with clean black-coated aluminum rails everywhere, a plain 300 x 300mm glass print bed, and all of the brains neatly curtailed off to one side in a control box with mounted filament holder. It looks slim, prints big, and has mustard color go-faster stripes.

But despite its slender frame, the Creality CR-10 is a big 3D printer. Any we’re not just talking about its large build volume. This thing takes up more space in the All3DP print room than any other printer. “Hurr-hurr, no duh,” you may be thinking, “It prints big stuff, of course it’s a big printer”. But wait, hear us out.

The control box and filament holder sit at such a height and position that you must place it a certain distance from the frame of the CR-10 for filament to feed unhindered into the extruder text to number converter. The frame itself is large enough on its own, but with the control box forced to sit a little apart, means in total the CR-10’s footprint is as wide as it is tall. Our test model, the smallest of the CR-10 family, sits a shade taller than the Zortrax M300 and wider even than the Makerbot Replicator+.

This could be solved by simply moving the filament holder off the control box, allowing you to scooch the box closer to the frame. Where the filament could go though, we don’t know 1 usd to inr in xoom. Perhaps to the top of the frame, a-la the Prusa i3 Mk2S, but we suspect that may have an unsettling effect on prints. The frame itself is integral to the Z-axis’ movements, what with the linear bearings riding up and down the tracks. Any wobbles from that extra weight would transfer to prints.

Zipping back and forth in only one dimension, the print head’s movement is constrained to the X-axis only. A rail held in place on both ends (unlike its predecessor mentioned above) is driven by a single lead screw on the lefthand side. The other end is stabilized on the opposite frame by fixed linear bearings and pulley secured in a track.

Seeing the Z-axis drive from only one side, you get the initial impression that it could be an area of weakness fundamentals of futures and options markets pdf 8th. With all the lifting done from one end, surely the other must sag under its own weight?

Of course, this is dispelled pretty quickly once you see the CR-10 in action and start popping quality prints off the bed. But still, it’s a part of the printer’s design that lingers in mind as being something that could degrade in time.

By and large, the CR-10’s big selling-factor is its enormous print area. Available in three variants, the smallest (standard) print area is 300 x 300 x 400mm — larger even than the Lulzbot Taz 6, MakerBot Replicator+, and Zortax M300 — all 3D printers known for their large print volumes.

We have been using the standard size machine for this review, but understand that the only difference between the varients is print bed size, meaning the contents of this review should largely cover the 400mm- and 500mm-cubed versions of the CR-10 as well.

The company also claims the CR-10’s board is industrial. The company rates the printer as good for 200 hours continuous operation, which seems conveniently high enough of a number that most won’t even bother testing. Even at our most ambitious, using Cura, we played around with print settings and sizes filling the print volume, but the preview never came close to estimating 200 printing hours.

The CR-10 features a heated bed that seems to do an adequate job of spreading the heat across its glass print surface. We didn’t encounter any obvious issues with heat propagation.

SD card and USB connectivity sort out print management, with the control box and it’s LCD screen and control wheel easily navigable for print preparation and fine-tuning calibration.

A switch on the side of the control box allows for the switching between 110 and 220 volts for your power supply, making the printer internationally savvy.

As we’ve become accustomed to with these kits and semi-assembled 3D printers, the Creality arrives in an unassuming cardboard box. Its acutely apparent that one of the first costs cut with the “cheap” printers is decent marketing materials binary words. It’d be nice to at least see a picture of the printer on the box, or something to mark the occasion a little more.

First-world-problems aside, strip away the CR-10’s packaging and you find two foam packing trays with a handful of parts, including bundles of tools and spare screws — a thoughtful and welcome touch that we were happy to see.

Building the Creality CR-10 was intuitive and simple, no thanks to the frankly piss-poor instructions that come with the printer. One glance at the single sheet of blurry, confusingly arranged pixels and we decided to move on without them.

If you’re brand new to 3D printing and are considering the CR-10 (which we wholeheartedly recommend), seek out a better set of instructions online 100 usd to eur. Everyone else with a vague understanding of the parts and arrangement of an FFF 3D printer will do just fine piecing it together without instructions. We did, and nothing has caught on fire (yet…).

And perhaps the nicest feature of all for setup is the pre-shrouded and organized control box cabling. Tidy and secure male-female connectors with screw fastenings slot together without any incidence, and overall the “wiring” (if you can really call it that) was a dream. Plugging basic labelled connectors into their respective stepper motors and endstops is as complicated as this simple build gets.

A word of caution though. One of the pins for the Y-axis stepper motor was completely loose from the connector housing 99 usd. A concerning blip of poor quality control for a printer that generally ups the build quality over other kit 3D printers we’ve encountered. It was no trouble to pop it back in, but had we missed it one wonders what problems it might’ve caused — critical or otherwise.

Despite our natural dislike for Bowden setups, the Creality CR-10’s is surprisingly robust. Filament feeds in and out with no hassle. Although the layout and position of it is puzzling. The entry point for the exposed filament right next to the lead screw.

Ordinarily this wouldn’t trouble us so much since the lead screw is turning so slowly in comparison to, say the belts on the X- and Y- axes, but said lead screw is so overly lubricated that we wonder what effect a little lubricant transferring to the filament and finding its way into the hot end’s chamber would have. Nothing good, probably.

Handily, the inventive folks populating Thingiverse with printable CR-10 mods have the solution. We found a housing for the extruder by KariKemppainen that keeps the filament on the straight and narrow. It was one of the first prints we ran off the CR-10, and we highly recommend this mod.

Creality itself rates the CR-10 capable of handling TPU flexible filament. We know flexibles typically have trouble bridging the gaps from toothed gear to feeding tube in such open extruders as the CR-10’s. But closer inspection shows that the toothed gear here is offset closer to the tube. Sadly we haven’t had the opportunity to test the printer’s capabilities for such filament as of yet. We’ll update this review in due course once we’ve fully tested this capability.

Colorfabb’s Corkfill passed through with little incidence, as did the company’s N-Gen (with the exception of spool tangling, which causes print failures) and a handful of different PLAs.

The CR-10 is more a blunt tool, than a complete 3D printing package. The software you use is entirely up to you idr to usd converter. Which is arguably one of the greatest strengths of such “cheap” and open-ended 3D printer.

For the duration of our testing we used Cura 2.6.2. Since the vanilla Cura does not feature a preloaded print profile for the CR-10, you’ll need to dig the settings up somewhere online. We found PRESS RESET’s profile to work like a charm (he also details the setting you need for Simplify3D).

Saving your g-code to the provided microSD card (via the thoughtfully included USB adapter), it’s just a case of swapping the card from computer to printer. Easy.